The View from the Towers 塔からの眺め A web log by Nigel Ruddock of life in Germany as an expat, with excursions to Japan and the UK.

Tag: tokyo

  • ⛩️ Hoshikawa, Odawara 星川, 小田原市

    6th January 2026年1月6日

    🔵 I wake up in the middle of the night. My feet are freezing. Socks, that’s what I need now. Hiking socks 🧦!

    But why is my room so cold? I think of that photo I posted last week. Of the wooden framework of a new house being built. Japanese houses do not have central heating 🤔. When you enter a cold room you just flick on the air conditioning unit, which doubles as a heater in winter. And a very effective one at that. A completely different concept of heating compared to that in Europe. It makes sense.

    1月は寒いですが、晴れています

    🔵 Since New Years Day Japan has been in a holiday modus. Look: here is Japanese man enjoying his Austin Healey Sprite…….

    星川の古い英国製スポーツカー

    Everyone has time – to eat, to drink, to take a walk, to go shopping – to relax in other words. Time to wear a kimono,time to bring the children on an outing. Time for the family. And I notice how strong that latter tradition is.

    🔵 Let’s start with New Year’s Eve.

    At my host family’s house in Hoshikawa, relatives, guests and friends are all gathered………

    まずは大晦日から始めましょう。

    It’s a make your own sushi job…..first grab some Nori (rolled out seaweed)……add some rice and off you go…..yummy!

    I lost count of the courses……

    Yu-san seemed to be in charge of the sake, which flowed freely……

    酒はゆうさんが担当のようでした

    Whilst Bibi, Isabell and Lavi share a joke in one corner…..

    🔵 Before the stroke of midnight we all had to eat Soba noodles. It’s a tradition…….

    そば

    🕛!

    夜中

    Then it’s coats and shoes on and off to the Shinto shrine……

    Tachibana Jinja
    橘樹神社

    🔵 It’s at Tennocho, only about 10 mins walk from the house. We shuffle forward in the long queue, passing under the sacred Tori gateposts…..

    The moon looks down from above…..

    Photo: Misako-san

    🔵 We finally approach the shrine. Here, two by two, we shake the thick bell rope, throw in our offering, bow and clap hands together. We wish for good fortune in the coming year….

    🔵 At the stand nearby we collect a yummy (free!) sake from a tent and huddle around a big warm fire. I notice that the local Yokohama fireman have taken over the responsibility here. I feel privileged to be a part of this really rather intimate old Japanese tradition.

    🔵 The next day, New Year’s Day, the celebrations continued. With a very special meal, using tableware brought out only once a year…..

    ……and bearing the Kanakura family crest – a cross formed by two feathers….

    Photo: Isabell

    A special teapot…..

    Lavi helps by making a sweet brocade egg cake called Nishiki Tamago (錦玉子)……

    Photo: Isabell

    Thank you Misako-san for all the delicious cooking 👏👏👏!

    🔵 Yes, the nights are cold. But the days are bright, dry and sunny.

    I need to get out and take in the fresh January air. With a benevolent air of politeness, cleanliness and punctuality, the Tokaido Line train deposits me in the coastal town of Odawara. It is a charming place, with a pretty castle, a wide open beach and a busy fishing port. It also happens to be on the route of the Ekiden – an annual running event. Spot a runner…..😅

    小田原市. (駅伝)

    The castle is easier to spot…..

    小田原市

    You enter the inner ramparts via a bridge over the moat…..

    …….and pass through one of the imposing gates..

    🔵 Soon you can see the heavy toll that the 1923 Great Kantō Earthquake  had on the place. At one point a whole section of rampart simply slide down the hill and has been there ever since…

    But thanks to restoration and rebuilding the clean lines of the Edo-era castle can be appreciated….

    Early plum blossoms near the inner moat….

    …a display of wattle and daub….

    …the impressive main keep rises up at the centre of the complex….

    🔵 Usually there is very little to see inside these buildings. There are lots of very steep stairs and slatted windows. You climb up to the top for the view of course. But today the holiday crowds had formed a long queue at the entrance, so I headed down to the sea instead.

    🔵 Whimsical manholes were set into the pavements……

    And even the drains received artistic attention….

    Ignoring google maps, I found a way under the main road to reach the beach….

    小田原市.

    …a beach not unlike Brighton in Sussex….

    ビーチはイギリスのブライトンを思い出させます

    With a Wiltshire touch..(bizarre!)

    ストーンヘンジ!

    ……someone had built little stupa to adorn the scene….

    ….and at one point, in one of nature’s flourishes, a fresh water stream meets the ocean…..

    小川が海と出会う

    I headed for the harbour.

    🔵 When I first came to Japan I had a naive image of a land where ladies played the koto or strolled in their kimonos under parasols. Of ancient wooden houses nestling in valleys, neon flashing cities and, and, and, and. All this is still there.

    But I was not prepared for the daring civil engineering – a necessary skill in a country where roads and railways have to use the limited space available, especially along the coast. There is beauty here aswell……

    私は日本の大胆な土木工学に感心しています

    …..which sits cheek by jowl beside the traditional…..here a fish restaurant …

    …a boat enters the harbour undeterred…..

    船が港に入る

    It is a day boat,. The fish market has already dealt with todays’ haul….

    今日の魚市場は終了です

    …and a young heron perches on the roof eyeing any available left-overs….

    サギ

    🔵 Being a tourist can be hard work, and sometimes you just need to sit down, open your rucksack and enjoy whatever it was you bought at that convenience store……in this case a dorayaki…mmmm….https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dorayaki

    But the boats never rest…

    whilst the birds circle above….

    Time to head home…..

    家に帰る時間です

    Thank you for reading, and feel free to forward on to anyone who might be interested.

    読んでくれてありがとう！。ご興味がある方にはお気軽に転送してください。

    See you またね 🙋‍♂️

    nigelwruddock@gmail.com

    https://www.instagram.com/nigelruddock/

    The End

    終わり🏯

  • 🥂 A swig on a cold morning 乾杯！

    🥂 A swig on a cold morning 乾杯！

    December 12th 2025年12月12日

    “….Let’s get this ceiling done today, right? Yeap, I’ll drink to that! Prost!..”

    今日は天井を仕上げましょう！乾杯

    “….steady as she goes….”

    ご注意ください

    👉 There’s no doubt about it. It’s hard, cold work on a building site in Germany at this time of year. Sometimes the work is heavy and rough, at other times it’s exacting – carefully measuring walls and corners with a hand-held cm guage.

    This is the view from my desk, so I can hardly avoid it.

    This is a view from a cable car in Kobe…on the same day….

    一方、同じ日に神戸では

    👉 It can be odd to have these two climates, cultures and time zones impinging on my consciousness on the same day. Yes, my teacher Miki-san has just had a day out in the forest above Kobe, near Osaka. The leaves are changing colour…..

    紅葉

    ….and there is even the occasional flower!

    …and it is only a little bit fresh at 13°c. It is bright and dry….

    Photos: みきさん

    👉 Whereas here the tough little robin perches boldly in the naked branches of the Offenbacher Stadtwald…..

    Photo: Kilic Ummahani ロビン – オフェンバッハの森で

    👉 We had started out our hike at the Goethe Turm (tower) in Frankfurt Sachsenhausen. Being the first Advent, the Weihnachtsmarkt there was just about to open. But we first covered about 12km through the forest before we paused, and then at the Oberschweinstiege….

    ハイキングの後の暖かい火

    – what a name! It is in fact a very civilized Ausflugsrestaurant (“day outing restaurant” badly translated) north of Neu Isenburg.

    …my fellow hikers wanted to hear about my profession….😂

    これがバイオリンの弾き方です😂

    👉 So it’s not all gloom and doom in Germany’s dark December. Our book group enjoys an Indian meal in Seeheim- Jugendheim…..

    読書会 – 寒い冬の日のもう一つの趣味

    …discussing the merits of “Orbital” by Samantha Harvey. I’ve already mentioned this in my October blog, and was quite enamoured by it….https://wp.me/pgFtpk-o6….. However, with at least two of our group having worked with ESOC (European Space Operations Centre) opinions were mixed……..

    👉 Eat up your greens! my mother used to say. Well will this do? A nice Broccoli from Aldi to ward off the winter woes……

    母はいつも「野菜を食べなさい」と言っていました

    👉 Or maybe a Feuerzangbowle? That classic German alcoholic concoction which invoved setting a sugar loaf on fire over a glass of mulled wine. Here seen in action near Bensheim Auerbach…..

    フォイヤーザンゲンボウレ（翻訳不可能）…燃える砂糖が入った熱いアルコール飲料

    Along with Glüwein, it’s an antidote to all those forbidding castles…..

    陰鬱なドイツの城…👻

    👉 But hey ho, time for a silly selfie…….😅

    Apart from snuggling up on the sofa with a good book, my other antidote in these dark days is music. The BBC has however become un-cooperative for ex-pats ………

    それは複雑です……..

    👉 So it’s up to us to make music. Here is “music minus one” Pianist Sabine agreed to be my “sparring partner” for the Andante from Mendelssohn’s Trio Nr.1…without violinist ☹️. The latter is in Tokyo waiting for a real rehearsal with piano, violin and ‘cello…….!

    メンデルスゾーンのピアノ三重奏曲（ヴァイオリンなし）。ヴァイオリニストは東京でバンドの集合を待っている…

    Thank you for reading, and feel free to forward on to anyone who might be interested.

    読んでくれてありがとう！。ご興味がある方にはお気軽に転送してください。

    See you またね 🎻

    nigelwruddock@gmail.com

    The End

    ⛄

    終わり

  • Japan Flashback ⭕ Circle Line 名古屋

    This is the third in a series of posts which was previously hosted by WIX, a server based in Tel Aviv which has been the subject of an international boycott.

    April 25th 2025年4月25日

    As you can see below, the city of Nagoya has a very convenient circular metro line. Easy-peasy. Like in Tokyo or London, it’s the line for lost tourists. It has a clockwise service, and an anti-clockwise service (called the counter-clockwise service in American).

    Wow, this is easy I thought, and hopped on. Ah no, Nigel. Just to keep tourists alert, the line sometimes branches off….and of course that’s what happened to me. I branched off. To the port of Nagoya. It wasn’t painful, and I did get to where I wanted in the end. The end being a famous Shinto shrine called Atsuta Jingu (at about 7 o’clock on that purple line). Now there will be no carry-on there, understand?

    もう一つの翻訳の失敗

    Bad translations here are a constant form of amusement (or irritation) for me. I was using Nagoya as a convenient jumping off point for the Nakasendo, an old 18thc. road that runs through the mountains.

    But before going into the mountains there was time for sightseeing and a concert. I had picked up the Karlsruhe Musikhochschule link and was going to hear Maine Takeda (soprano) sing in the Aichi Arts Centre. Three other prizewinners were also performing.

    As I approached the ticket desk and gave my name, a certain ripple of worry seem to flit across the face of the elderly man in charge. But the moment was saved by the stage manager, who recognised my name and led me up personally to my seat (not before he had primed the seat attendant to look after me….). So it was that I was able to sit back and enjoy Maine-san sing two songs from Mahler’s Das Knaben Wunderhorn; Handel’s “Lascia ch’io pianga”; an aria from The Marriage of Figaro “Deh, vieni, non tarda” and “Nun eilt herbei” from Carl Nicolai. Very enjoyable. And, as is so often the case in Japan, in a smart new concert hall with excellent acoustics.

    Emerging from the concert hall, I meet Nagoya gleaming in the night……

    …..and discover the Sakae area the next day…….

    Sakae 栄 Centre

    As it’s pretty flat, lots of people use bikes here. And there are handy bike lock zones – this one outside the NHK  broadcasting house……

    名古屋で自転車を駐輪する方法

    This how you do it…..easy when you know how…..😉

    名古屋の自転車駐車場システム

    Nagoya is the home of many of Japan’s big names – Toyota and Kawai  to name just two. But I am neither going to buy a car nor a piano. No, not even this one…..

    名古屋の自転車駐車場システム ( 😂 )

    I had a tip to follow – to that 7 o’clock on the metro map. Quite a trek to get there, but Nagoya is big.

    The Atsuta shrine is one of Shinto’s most important shrines. And it’s huge. Big enough to warrant it’s own metro station….

    It enshrines the Sun Goddess Amaterasu and stores the sacred sword Kusanagi – part of the imperial regalia. So in I tread with awe, bowing my head and clapping once under the huge Tori gate.

    最初の鳥居

    The vast complex of shrines are set in a thickly wooded park, so I often have to refer to the maps to orientate myself. The atmosphere is calm, the weather benign. Young couples wander hand in hand; a mother guides her little girl along. The child is more interested in making patterns in the gravel than paying obeisance to the gods. Quite understandable. A group of middle-aged women chatter away from under their sun hats. It’s a Sunday afternoon stroll after all, gods and all. Cameras are clicking 📷…..

    And however secular society may seem in Japan, Shintoism and Buddhism sit naturally in daily life. There is no fuss about it. No hang ups. At the shrine office (Juyo-sho) it is obvious what is on offer here – an ideal wedding venue.

    理想的な結婚式の場所

    It costs of course, but every young couple want the perfect photo-op don’t they?

    I’m not expecting to actually see anything at the shrine. There will be a set of closed doors and that’s it. But that’s not the point. You can’t see gods anyway, and it’s up to you how you manage them.

    神社の正面 Hongu Main Sanctuary

    It’s advisable to have time when you come to a place like this. None of that “be back at the coach in 1 hour” business. Oh no. I turned left and right in the shady woods, never knowing what to expect…….although I was aware of a restaurant behind the trees. What is this dish they are serving? Let’s try it…..

    きし麺 😋

    OMG. Seriously now. I cannot remember when I tasted such a delicious meal…..it’s called Kishimen, the kanji translating as something like “Go stone noodle” (the noodle used to be shaped like the stone in the game Go).These thick flat noodles seem to catch the flavour of the soup and…well…I think the gods were smiling down at me…..

    Thoroughly revived by this simple but intensely satisfying meal, I sat on a bench and took in the scene…….

    That’s what these gardens are for. For slowing down and contemplating. Under Shintoism, everything has a spiritual dimension: the rocks, the trees, even the cars…..

    This old camphor tree has the Shimenawa (rope) wrapped around it for ritual purification, and is decorated with Shide (paper streamers) to demarcate it as a holy place and to ward off evil spirits…..

    What a tree!

    標縄/注連縄

    Some of the trees here look as if they could have inspired Hayao Miyazaki for one of his Ghibli films…https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hayao_Miyazaki.

    Around one corner the chief priest had parked his car (well, he probably had it parked for him)…..hmmm….Well, we are in Toyota’s homeland here. In fact I would not be surprised if the car was donated by the company. A goodwill offering if you like.

    祭司長の車ですか？

    An architectural curiosity here…heavy stone slabs have been used to support (?) or relay (?) the downward thrust of this hall’s roof….

    興味深い建築技術

    Before I left I noticed these Sake barrels………

    酒

     and a nice piece of modern craftmanship on the door of a smaller shrine…

    Even today, the Japanese entrust their prayers for health, love or good exam results to small ema (votive plaques). This an old one which I saw in the Yokohama Museum…a wish for good breastfeeding….the gods are represented by a small cloud…..

    Here in the Atsuta shrine someone had left a prayer…..“may the white bird carry my wish…..” or words to that effect….

    goodbye Nagoya…..

    名古屋 さようなら

    I’m now off to the mountains of Gifu…….🥾….sayonara…..

    As always, thank you for reading, and if you know anyone who might be interested in this blog then do send it on.

    読んでくれてありがとう

    See you……. matane!

    Nigel 🖋️

    nigelwruddock@gmail.com.

  • Japan Flashback 🚅 Sendai 仙台

    12th April 2025年4月12日

    Sendai is about 360 km north of Tokyo – that’s about 21/2 hours with the Tohoku Shinkansen (bullet train). First, I give myself plenty of time to navigate Tokyo station………..

    忙しい旅行者。東京駅

     and find my platform……..

    私の電車はどこですか？

    A Shinkansen glides in smoothly……..

    新幹線が到着する

    The smartly dressed cleaners are ready with rubbish bags (holding them out to passengers as they disembark). One has a small hoover. Announcements are made. A civilised queue waits on the platform. When I think of Frankfurt Station….no…don’t..

    If you are not sure which is your train just get on the one which is going at the time published. It will be the right one….

    印象的な

    A cool wind greets me as I step out of the train at Sendai a few hours later.  I walk to my hotel, crossing the bus lanes and other traffic on high overhead pedestrian bridges. I’m not good at heights, but the hotel 8th floor is bearabIe. It could be worse……..

    仙台のホテル

    It’s only early afternoon, so I decide to walk to the castle (or what’s left of it)…..It was a stiff climb, but well worth it……

    仙台城

    At the top, Masamune Date, the powerful feudal lord of Sendai, glares out imperiously over the countryside and the sea….

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Date_Masamune

    He chose a good site for his castle, I must say…..

    街の素晴らしい景色

    Add a few early blossoms and he doesn’t look quite so fierce…..

    東京より遅い開花

    At important historical sites in Japan you will often see these great cedars – more of them anon….

    大きな杉

    Sendai is not really a tourist destination, but the place is a-buzz. Come evening and the Izakayas (pubs) and restaurants are heaving with young people eating, drinking, talking animately and laughing. Whilst outside the buses and taxis and cars seem to weave past on a sort of smooth wave……..

    仙台の夜

    A shopping mall…..

    The next day I used the circular bus route which links most of the historical sites around the city. The old feudal lords of Japan always found good spots to be laid to rest ( a prime example is the last Shogun’s -Tokugawa Ieyasu – shrine in Nikko, Tochigi ). The lord of the Tohoku region was no exception – Masamune Date. His mausoleum – the Zuihoden, originally built in 1636,  is a blaze of extravangant colour unlike anywhere else in Japan. You start first with a modest temple in a small garden….

    From here it’s a steep climb up to the mausoleum itself…..(the more important the ruler, the tougher the climb. Well that’s my experience).

    You pass the Nirvana gateway (as all good Buddhists know, Nirvana means reaching a state of enlightenment where worldly desires are no longer an issue and you escape the cycle of birth and rebirth)………..

    The mausoleum – front view

    藩主の瑞鳳殿

    派手な色彩

    The adjoining museum, which has relics of the pre -1945 original…….

    It may disappoint Europeans to learn that this whole complex is actually a replica of the original. But this doesn’t seem to worry the Japanese. There are colour postcards of the place pre -1945, and it looks exactly the same. Obviously the Americans wanted to destroy the port of Sendai, but fire bombing a 17thc. historical site, way outside the city?

    Leaving the precincts of the areal I took a woodland walk back down the hill.

    私は丘を下って森の中を散歩しました。

    At one point I came across a graveyard for children of the ruling classes….

    貴族の子女の墓地

    …. some of these cedars are about 380 years old….

    杉の樹齢は約380年です

    Before I had left for Sendai there was a job I had to do. I have a little friend who has just discovered the joys of pulling a bow across a string. But she is still not yet 3 years old! So did I have a violin small enough for her? As luck would have it, yes –  and it was easy to smuggle it into the overhead locker on the plane. Time to do a delivery in Sagamihara…

    Making someone happy. Is that not one of the greatest joys there is?

    幸福 🙂

    Meiko-chan was soon grabbing the bow – none of that beginners’ pizzicato for her….

    最初のステップ

    …and her brother was not to be left out…giving me a cheeky smile across the table…..

    小さな波

    Of course you soon end up on the floor….

    Kotaro-chan

    音楽一家

    As always, thank you for reading, and if you know anyone who might be interested in this blog then do send it on.

    音楽一家 🎶

    ~

    読んでくれてありがとう

    See you……. matane!

    Nigel 🖋️

    nigelwruddock@gmail.com.

    https://www.instagram.com/nigelruddock/

    THE END 　終わる

  • Japan Flashback 🌸 Hodogaya &  Sumida 保土ヶ谷, 墨田

    7th April 2025 年4月7日

    There is an expression here (in Germany)…..”mir fällt die Decke auf den Kopf ” (lit. The roof is falling on my head )……😣….in other words, I need to get out of my little town – now  💨 So…………………

    off we go……..Two stops to Dreiech-Buchschlag station, then a bus to the airport…..

    空港に行く

    I’ve found a new route to go east. First go to Copenhagen and then get on an SAS flight. I’d never used SAS before, but was impressed. The aircraft was new and the crew were a friendly bunch with a very Danish sense of humour……

    SAS

    The food was excellent. However, I had to ask my fellow passenger what an upcycled  banana was……. (apparently, instead of throwing away brown bananas, the Danes put them in cakes- an excellent idea).

    「アップサイクル」は私にとって新しい言葉です

    We “lost” a night, and caught up with the dawn somewhere over China……

    …avoiding Russian airspace on the way….

    Japan was rather cold and damp on arrival, but that at least meant that the cherry blossoms and camelias were somehow more intense in colour than usual.

    星川

    カメリア

    My home base is always with the Kanakura family in Hodogaya Ward, just outside Yokohama. After I had complimented my host on the new tatami mats in the guest room, I wandered into town to do some shopping and get a simple meal. The local department store did the trick….some tasty mackerel in dark sauce…very yummy and as usual far too cheap for the quality….

    イオンでの簡単な食事

    Aeon department store…

    It seems you never have to go far in Japan before you meet some little surprise or other.  I smiled to myself when I came scross this little mini in a parking lot….

    有名なイギリス車…..

    Quite apart from it being a shining collector’s item, the Mini is ideal for Japanese cities….and what a nice colour……

    I have never seen any tourists in Hodogaya, except for the students who stay at Misako- san’s house. The Katabira river separates the area in two, and has a nice promenade running down one side. There are no crowds here, so you can enjoy the cherry blossoms in peace…..

     …whilst of course taking advantage of the numerous eating places en route. Like this Ramen shop, for example……..uncomplicated and good…..cabbage and bean sprouts in a yummy soup…..

    天王町の美味しいラーメン

    …….free water is a given, as well as lots of sauces to pep up your Ramen if you feel the need….

    The street is a classic Japanese side street with lots on offer….(not only food…er…..)….

    天王町

    Nice to see my feline friends again……

    4匹の猫のうち2匹だけ

    So what’s new in Hodogaya? Well, more houses are being ingeniously squeezed onto the hillside….

    巧妙な日本の建築

    …..although odd relics of post-war housing still exist…..

    古い家

    …and house renovation firms are busy……

    仕事がたくさんある

    And whether it is a kindergarten play session, a baseball practice or old folk playing a sort of croquet, there is always something happenening in the local park…..

    峰岡公園

    Apropos baseball (野球 yakyu)……..in a local sports shop……

    野球

    There is peace to be found up the hill at the local Buddhist temple……

    Koeisan Hossho Temple

    光栄山法性寺

    Around town.……The well known delivery service Kuroneko (black cat)

    ……Greetings from the Yokohama City Fire Dept.

    It’s hard to describe, but everybody seems uplifted by the appearance of the cherry blossoms……….

    Later in the week, when I had recovered from my jet-lag  jisaboke  時差ぼけ, I meet up with my Sensei (teacher) in Tokyo. First we went up to a 32nd floor to a view point next to the Tokyo Skytree. Here you can look down on the Sumida district and further……

    A short walk brings us to the Sakura Bridge Bashi  ( featured in the film Perfect Days https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QzZBbX5A1FA )

    ..and a stroll down the banks of the River Sumida, where people are enjoying themselves. It is a very Japanese scene.

    にほんぽい

    There is no loud music or commercials; but picknicking, walking, talking and eating……a nice vibe…..Hanami  花見

    花見

    😋

    The names of sponsoring firms are tastefully displayed on the lanterns…..

    The author……feeling good…..!

    良い気分

    Later on we end up in a seafood Izakaya near Shinbashi station. Without Miki-san I would have had my work cut out ordering food…….

    Sashimi – oysters, squid, octopus, yellowtail, tuna…..with tempura on the side (battered pumpkin, leek and shrimp)

    刺身 – 牡蠣、イカ、タコ、ハマチ、マグロ…天ぷら（カボチャ、ネギ、エビ）

    I think we need a close-up……

    Delicious 😋 (except for the baby squid, which I still cannot manage, even after several years).

    Some Sake is essential after such a meal…..

    Shinbashi……simply countless eating places….

    新橋

    As always, thank you for reading, and if you know anyone who might be interested in this blog then do send it on.

    読んでくれてありがとう

    See you……. matane!

    Nigel 🖋️

    nigelwruddock@gmail.com.

    https://www.instagram.com/nigelruddock/

    THE END 　終わる